Natural Fabrics

As soon as people trot out the natural and organic chatter, most of us are likely to shut down and let the green-speak wash over us while paying scant attention to the content. The green lobby is made up of tree hugging hippies after all, and how can they expect to be taken seriously? While this view of the eco-warrior has been punted by media and, quite frankly, a lot of the concerned themselves, it is a view that is waning rather rapidly. Ever since Hollywood became environmentally conscious, being green has attracted a totally new kind of cool. As soon as Al Gore released an Oscar winning documentary about climate change and how it affects each and every one of us, it was seen as an intellectual, as well as a hippie, pursuit to care about the planet. The environmental sector has finally shed its anorak image and being involved in saving the planet is no longer a marginal interest held by the girl in Birkenstocks and lank hair. It is the time of slick designer gear, fabrics that delight, style that is timeless and at the same time contemporary, while all the time being kind to the place we call home.

                     

The first fabric that needs to be identified and heralded is hemp.

Hemp is currently being used by designers in clothing, flooring, construction and plastics. It is truly a wonder plant that provided the sails for of all the great explorers’ tall ships. Without hemp, Columbus would not have discovered the Americas and Da Gama would never have rounded the Cape of Good Hope.

When thinking of hemp, the illegal plant, marijuana comes to mind. This perception is entirely without basis in fact. Hemp contains only trace amounts of THC, the narcotic chemical that, when smoked, produces the high. Marijuana is from the dried flowers and leaves of the Cannabis Sativa plant, a close cousin of industrial hemp. Hemp fabric is made from the stems of the plant. The stems are processed to dissolve the gum or pectin and separate the fibres which are then processed again and woven into yarns and fabric. Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and appearance. Hemp fabric withstands water better than any other textile product. It wrinkles easily and should not be creased excessively to avoid wear and breakage of the fibres. It is a hard wearing fabric that is well suited to clothing, drapery and upholstery.

Ramie is also similar to linen and is a product of plant fibre. It is natural white in colour, has a high lustre and an unusual resistance to bacteria and moulds. Used in fabrics, and often mistaken for linen, it is extremely absorbent and dries quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance and has been tested to be three to five times stronger than cotton and twice as strong as flax. It is an inexpensive fibre from an East Asian plant and can be spun or woven into a fabric.

The use of wool fabric brings to mind cosy warmth. Although wool fibre comes from a variety of animal coats, wool is extremely soft. The wool fibres have crimps, or curls, which create pockets and give the wool a spongy feel and insulates the wearer. The outside surface of the fibre consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fibre with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibres to cling together and produce felt. The same serrations will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks. Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing. Felt is an excellent choice for furnishings and using as sound proofing and insulation.

Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woollen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woollens. Worsted wool is smoother than woollen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woollen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibres are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric breathes, unlike man-made polyester.

The most common natural fibre, cotton, is cool, soft, comfortable and the principal clothing fibre of the world. Its production is one of the major factors in world prosperity and economic stability. Cotton breathes. What would we do without cotton? Consumers now often request 100% Organic Cotton. This means the production of the fabric has not contributed to polluting the environment and is produced under the auspices of an internationally recognized environmental association.

The cotton fibre is from the cotton plant’s seed pod. The fibre is hollow in the centre and, under a microscope looks like a twisted ribbon. Absorbent cotton will retain 24-27 times its own weight in water and is stronger when wet than dry. This fibre absorbs and releases perspiration quickly, thus allowing the fabric to "breathe". Cotton can stand high temperatures and takes dyes easily. Cotton can also be ironed at relatively high temperatures, stands up to abrasion and wears well.

Mention "silk" to someone and immediately their thoughts turn to luxury and opulence. No other fabric generates quite the same reaction. For centuries silk has had a reputation as a luxurious and sensuous fabric, one associated with wealth and success. Silk is one of the oldest textile fibres known to man. It has been used by the Chinese since the 27th century BC and is mentioned by Aristotle and became a valuable commodity both in Greece and Rome. During the Roman Empire, silk was sold for its weight in gold.

Silk is the strongest natural fibre. A steel filament of the same diameter as silk will break before a filament of silk. Silk absorbs moisture, which makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Because of its high absorbency, it is easily dyed in many deep colours. Silk retains its shape, drapes well, caresses the figure, and shimmers with a lustre all of its own.

While mostly used in fashionable garments, silk has a place in history as a luxurious wall coating used in palaces and more recently, in the Scottish houses of parliament. Drapery and upholstery can also benefit from the sensuous touch of the fabric, however oftentimes the costs are prohibitive.

Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibres and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation. Not only is the linen fibre strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the lustre of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.

Linen is from flax, a bast fibre taken from the stalk of the plant. The lustre is from the natural wax content. Creamy white to light tan, this fibre can be easily dyed and the colour does not fade when washed. Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily. Linen, like cotton, can also be boiled without damaging the fibre.

Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, this fabric is cool in garments. However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems and any area that is iron creased during the laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily. Its historical use as a fabric for tableware and drapery is a long and illustrious one. Any table dressed with good linen leaves a lasting impression.

Bamboo has more recently become a fabric that is increasingly being used in a variety of applications. Traditionally used as scaffolding in the Far East, bamboo is extremely strong and durable. Fabric made from the plant has some unique properties that make it an interesting, eco-friendly alternative to some of the fabrics produced.

The bamboo plant grows well without any pesticides, is the fastest growing plant on the planet and is hardy. Scientists found that bamboo owns a unique anti-bacteria and bacteriostasis bio-agent named "bamboo kun". This substance bonds tightly with bamboo cellulose molecules during the normal process of bamboo fibre growth. This natural feature is retained in fabric form. Organically grown cloth made from bamboo has particular natural anti-bacterial functions, bacteriostasis and deodorization value. Test results show over 70% death rate after bacteria was incubated on bamboo fibre fabric. In addition, tests by the Japanese Textile Inspection Association found that even after fifty washing cycles, bamboo fabric still possessed these attributes.

In order to have an impact on the environment, we need to become better educated regarding our choices as consumers. Ask questions about the source of the materials that make the product you are buying. Recycled wood is being widely used in order to reduce our impact. Advances are being made in organic and safe fabric production that can accommodate the most discerning of tastes. There is no reason to believe that we are powerless in the fight against climate change. Through our buying habits, we can create a demand for furniture, fabrics and clothing that take responsibility for the health of the planet. The change will only become a reality once we all make the effort to make smarter choices when decorating our homes. Buy organic. It is a lot easier than you think.